June 2025

Sicily: Sun, Spritz & a Touch of Timelessness

Well hello there…

Rome was the setting for our girls’ trip last year. This year, we decided to take it one step further south – to Sicily. The choice wasn’t random: one of my dear friends, whom I’ve known since birth, works for the Rocco Forte Hotels group, and what better excuse to visit two of their most iconic Sicilian properties?

Sicily has always conjured up images of dramatic coastlines, Greek temples bathed in golden light, rustic towns, and, of course, the mafia legends we’ve all seen on screen. But what I found was something quite different: a land of extremes, where luxury resorts meet rugged cliffs, baroque piazzas meet bustling street markets, and the food is always, always the star.

Practical Wisdom

Getting to Sicily was easier than expected, although it required a bit of hopping around. We booked our flights to Palermo with SN Brussels, but ended up flying a codeshare with ITA Airways, Lufthansa, and Air Dolomiti. Although there was no direct flight this time, we had smooth connections and no delays.

Once landed, we picked up our rental car with Sunny Cars, a must if you plan on exploring outside Palermo. Public transport can be limited, and many sights (like the Scala dei Turchi) are best reached by car.

A few local tips:

Tickets for Scala dei Turchi must be booked online in advance – they don’t sell them at the entrance, and mobile reception there is terrible.
Sicilian roads can be adventurous. As Belgians, we quickly noticed that sticking to the speed limit made us the slowpokes of the road, locals happily honked as they zoomed past, clearly convinced we were holding up traffic. So drive defensively.
Parking in smaller towns can feel like stepping back in time. In Sciacca, we had to buy scratch cards at the tobacco shop to pay for parking. One to reveal the date, another to scratch off the time. Luckily, the locals cheerfully guided us through this charmingly old-school ritual in their best English.

The Tourist Hotspots

Our Sicilian adventure was brief (5days), so we had to make our choices carefully.

Scala dei Turchi (Realmonte)
A chalk-white cliff plunging into turquoise waters, this natural wonder is a sight to behold. We didn’t go for a swim, but standing on those bright steps of limestone with the sea breeze in our hair felt magical. Worth the trip, just wear good shoes (it’s slippery).

Valle dei Templi (Agrigento)
We didn’t visit the famous Greek temples this time – the heat made the pool at Verdura far too tempting! But for history lovers, this UNESCO World Heritage site is just a short drive from Scala dei Turchi and easy to combine in a day trip. The Temple of Concordia is one of the best-preserved Greek temples in the world and a true icon of Sicily.

Planeta Ulmo Winery (Sambuca di Sicilia)
Nestled in the Sicilian countryside, a little off the beaten track, we found one of the warmest welcomes of the trip at Planeta Ulmo. I already knew their wines from Italian restaurants back home in Belgium, especially their Chardonnay from Menfi, a bold, full-bodied white that often finds its way onto wine lists. But this visit opened my eyes (and taste buds) to so much more. From the reds, the standout was Santa Cecilia, rich yet balanced. And let’s not forget their olive oil, truly some of the finest I’ve ever tasted. If you’re anywhere near Sambuca di Sicilia, make sure to stop here. It’s not just about wine, it’s about the Sicilian art of hospitality, poured straight into your glass.

Palermo
Palermo surprised me in the best way. A city of contradictions: faded grandeur and buzzing chaos, baroque beauty and gritty corners. Highlights included:
- Palermo Cathedral, majestic and serene.
- Quattro Canti & Piazza Pretoria, theatrical squares where the city feels like a stage set.
- Teatro Massimo, yes, that opera house from The Godfather.
- Mercato del Capo, the soul of Palermo, full of colors, chaos, and irresistible street food.

Other Highlights Worth Adding to Your List, when visiting Sicily:

Etna Volcano - We didn’t plan a trip to Etna, as it’s a 3.5-hour drive one-way from our hotel near Sciacca. It’s much better to visit from Catania. And, as if to remind us who’s boss, Etna erupted just days before our arrival, the site was closed to visitors anyway. Still, if you’re in eastern Sicily, it’s a must-see.

Noto - Another gem closer to Catania is Noto, often called the “Capital of Baroque.” With its honey-colored stone palaces and grand piazzas, it’s said to look like a film set at golden hour. Sadly, from our base it was too far.
Taormina – perched high above the Ionian coast, famous for its ancient Greek theatre with views of Etna.
Cefalù – a charming seaside town with a medieval cathedral and sandy beaches, just an hour from Palermo.
Ortigia (Syracuse) – a romantic island quarter full of winding alleys, baroque piazzas, and stunning sea views.
Monreale – just outside Palermo, its cathedral is a masterpiece of Norman architecture with dazzling golden mosaics.

Would you like a table?

If Sicily is about anything, it’s about food; rustic, generous, and unforgettable.

At Verdura Resort (Sciacca):
- Buongiorno: the breakfast buffet was nothing short of royal. Fresh fruits, pastries, and Sicilian specialties like Cannoli’s which made mornings feel like a feast.
- L’Osteria: perfect for a casual arrival lunch, with views of the pool and the sea.
- Liolà: our absolute favourite, delicious Sicilian comfort food, stunning sea views, and warm service. The restaurant was also full of people, which gave a vibrant atmosphere. We went back a second time.
- Cocktails? Don’t miss the Verdura Spritz, our favourite drink of the trip. Comparable to an Aperol Spritz, but just that little bit extra!

Dinner in Sciacca:
One evening we ventured into the harbor town of Sciacca and dined at Porto San Paolo Ristorante, where fresh seafood and a gentle sea breeze set the tone. A local had described Sciacca to me as a charming seaside harbortown full of cozy restaurants, but in reality, I found it a little less picturesque than promised.

In Palermo:
Our last night was spent at the Igiea Terrazza Bar at Villa Igiea. Elegant, stylish, and with views that make you wish the night would never end. A talented female DJ was setting the vibe. I thought she was absolutely brilliant. At one point, a family celebration unfolded nearby, and a couple spontaneously sat down at the piano, treating us all to a classical opera duet. The bar itself buzzed with energy, filled with chic French thirty-somethings who had just arrived for a wedding at this renowned hotel. It felt like the perfect mix of elegance, culture, and a touch of glamour to close our Sicilian journey.”

Good night, sleep tight!

Four nights, two unforgettable stays:

Rocco Forte Verdura Resort ***** (Sciacca)
A sprawling luxury estate with golf courses as perfectly manicured as a royal garden. The beachfront areas could use a touch more upkeep, but overall, the resort breathes elegance. The service was consistently friendly, and the food was excellent. The only thing we missed? A bit more buzz, it felt like low season, a little too calm at times.

Rocco Forte Villa Igiea ***** (Palermo)
Stepping into Villa Igiea feels like entering a glamorous film set. The historic villa overlooks the sea, yet is just minutes from the heart of Palermo. A perfect blend of old-world elegance and modern comfort. Our short stay here was the ideal finale to the trip.

I Could Give Up Shopping, But I Am Not a Quitter.

Shopping wasn’t our priority in Palermo, but the city makes it hard to resist. Along Via Roma and Via Maqueda, the two main shopping streets, you’ll find everything from elegant Italian fashion houses to quirky little boutiques.

When it comes to souvenirs, Sicilian ceramics are a true icon. Brightly painted plates, bowls, and tiles fill shop windows, each one a little work of art. One of the most striking pieces you’ll come across is the Testa di Moro vase – a dramatic ceramic head, often of a king or queen, with a fascinating legend behind it. These vases are symbols of passion, jealousy, and love, and they make unforgettable (if slightly extravagant) keepsakes.

If you prefer edible memories (and really, who doesn’t?), Sicily is a paradise. I picked up a jar of silky pistachio cream – delicious on bread or just by the spoonful. Cannoli, of course, are the quintessential treat, filled with sweet ricotta and often topped with candied fruit or pistachios. Don’t forget to tuck some almond pastries into your bag, or even a bottle of the island’s golden olive oil, so the flavors of Sicily can travel home with you.