July 2022
Puglia: The Golden South – Olive Trees, Bold Red Wines, a Crystal-Clear Sea, and Hidden Masserias
Well, hello there …
We’ve always been Italy lovers, forever drawn back by its irresistible food, sweeping landscapes, and that ineffable dolce vita! Puglia had been on our radar for some time, and in July 2022 we finally made it happen. The promise of turquoise coastlines, iconic whitewashed trulli, endless olive groves, and our beloved Primitivo reds was too tempting. So we packed our bags, gathered our daughters, and set off.
Practical Wisdom
We flew with Ryanair from Charleroi to Bari, and let’s say, never again! The trouble started even before we reached the terminal: confusion over parking, delays waiting for the shuttle bus, and mounting stress as the clock kept ticking. Once inside, things only got worse, endless lines, zero organization, brusque staff, etc… The whole experience was pure chaos from start to finish.
Once in Bari, we picked up our rental car from Sunny Cars, our go-to broker. We always book with them because they offer true all-in prices, no hidden fees, and no deductible. And in Puglia, a car isn’t just convenient, it’s essential!
The region is vast and spread out, with its charm hidden in the many villages, vineyards, and coastal towns scattered across the heel of Italy’s boot. During our 12 days, we had to make choices, and even then, we couldn’t see it all. Sadly, we missed Matera (just outside Puglia, but said to be absolutely stunning, still on our list for a future trip.
We did, however, have the advantage of local expertise. Our favorite trattoria back home in Belgium is run by Pugliesi, and since they return every year to visit their family, they made sure we left well-armed with insider tips and recommendations.
The Tourist Hotspots
Puglia is dotted with places that look like they belong on a postcard, and yet each has its own soul.
Polignano a Mare
Perched dramatically on limestone cliffs above the Adriatic, this seaside gem takes your breath away the moment you arrive. Narrow alleys lead you to balconies suspended over turquoise waters, and hidden caves sparkle like underwater cathedrals. It’s no wonder filmmakers and cliff-diving championships have chosen Polignano as their stage; it’s cinematic at every angle.
Monopoli
Just down the coast, Monopoli is a whitewashed fishing town with Greek roots. The harbor, filled with brightly painted boats, feels timeless, as if mass tourism forgot this corner of Italy. Wander through the old town, past pastel shutters and tiny piazzas, and you’ll feel a sense of authenticity that’s increasingly rare. This is Puglia in its purest form.
Alberobello & the Trulli
Nowhere else in the world will you see streets lined with the iconic conical-roofed trulli. Originally built centuries ago as a clever tax dodge, these delicate whitewashed homes are now a UNESCO World Heritage treasure. Alberobello can be busy, but once you wander through the narrower alleys, it’s impossible not to be struck by the sheer uniqueness of the place – almost as if time has slowed down just for you.
Grotte di Castellana
A labyrinth beneath the earth, stretching for over three kilometers. Descending into the caves feels like stepping into another world: cathedrals of stalactites, shimmering white halls, and an almost spiritual silence. The highlight is the Grotta Bianca, glowing with pure alabaster, a memory that stays long after you resurface into the Puglian sun.
Unfortunately, we didn’t get the chance to visit. The cave’s visiting hours didn’t align with our arrival, and due to my heart condition, it wasn’t recommended.
Locorotondo, Martina Franca & Cisternino
Locorotondo, nicknamed the balcony of the Valle d’Itria, offers sweeping views over vineyards and trulli-studded landscapes. Martina Franca dazzles with its baroque palazzi and boutique-filled alleys, while Cisternino tempts you with culinary delights – especially bombette, sizzling parcels of meat and cheese best enjoyed with a carafe of local wine.
Martina Franca
Ostuni
Known as the Città Bianca, Ostuni is a maze of whitewashed houses cascading down a hillside. Every corner brings a surprise: a glimpse of the sea, a hidden courtyard, or a local leaning against a doorway ready for a chat. Climbing its cobbled streets is a workout, but the views – and atmosphere, are worth every step.
Lecce
The “Florence of the South,” where golden baroque facades glow in the sunlight. The city feels both grand and intimate, with ornate churches standing shoulder to shoulder with cozy cafes. Don’t miss the paper-mâché figurines in shop windows, a unique Lecce tradition that adds an artistic quirk to its elegance.
Grotta della Poesia & Torre dell’Orso
Imagine a natural pool carved by the sea, its waters so clear it looks like glass. According to legend, poets once gathered here, inspired by a beautiful princess who swam in the cove. Nearby, Torre dell’Orso offers soft white sands and limestone stacks rising from the sea – one of the most spectacular beaches in southern Italy.
Otranto & Gallipoli
Otranto charms with its pastel houses and fortress walls, its history etched into every stone – including the haunting memory of the martyrs of 1480. Gallipoli, by contrast, feels like an island town frozen in time, with fishermen mending nets by the sea and lanes that smell of salt and sun. Both are must-sees for their mix of history and seaside beauty.
Gallipoli
Punta Prosciutto
The name might sound playful, but the experience is undeniably beautiful. Powdery sand, shallow turquoise waters, and a sense of being somewhere far from the everyday – locals even call it the “Maldives of Italy.” For the scenery, the comparison isn’t entirely off. That said, in my opinion, the hype can feel a bit exaggerated. Italian beach clubs generally offer far less luxury than you might find in Belgium or on high-end destinations, and that’s true here as well. While this region is quickly gaining popularity as a second-home hotspot for wealthy Europeans, it still doesn’t match the level of comfort or service you’d find in places like Marbella or Ibiza.
Grottaglie & Manduria
Grottaglie is the beating heart of Puglian ceramics, where artisans still shape and paint vibrant pottery by hand. Just nearby, Manduria is synonymous with its famous Primitivo wine, bold and velvety. Together, they offer the perfect souvenir pairing: art for your shelves and wine for your soul.
Bari
Our journey ended in Bari, a city that surprised us with its energy. In Bari Vecchia, women still hand-roll orecchiette pasta in the streets, a scene as authentic as it gets. The mix of history, food, and seaside vibes made it the perfect finale to our road trip.
Would you like a table?
One of the joys of traveling through Puglia is diving into its food culture – honest, flavorful, and always connected to the land and sea. Much of our journey was spent eating in the masserie where we stayed, enjoying homemade pasta, seasonal vegetables, local olive oil, and wines like Primitivo, Negroamaro, and crisp whites such as Verdeca. To finish, there are irresistible sweets like the creamy pasticciotto or the festive cartellate, drizzled with honey or vincotto.
A handful of restaurants I would like to share with you:
Osteria del Porto, Savelletri – A cozy spot by the sea, perfect for enjoying freshly caught seafood prepared in a simple, authentic way. The atmosphere is relaxed yet elegant.
Il Cortiletto, Fasano Speziale – A true hidden gem, with a beautiful shaded courtyard. The atmosphere strikes the perfect balance between homey warmth and thoughtful presentation, with generous portions, refined flavors.
La Falegnameria, Masseria Montenapoleone Fasano – Our personal favorite! Dining poolside adds a magical touch, featuring fresh, organic ingredients from the masseria’s garden, showcasing Puglia’s traditional flavors in dishes like stracciatella, tartufo, and almond salad.
Arborvitae Ristorante, Otranto – A contemporary dining experience that still honors local ingredients and recipes. Expect a balance of elegance, innovation, and the unmistakable flavors of Puglia, all set in a cozy and inviting atmosphere.
Grotta Palazzese, Polignano a Mare – Although we didn’t dine here, this world-famous restaurant is worth mentioning for its spectacular setting inside a natural sea cave overlooking the Adriatic. Often described as one of the most romantic dining spots in Italy, it’s as much about the breathtaking atmosphere as the food itself, making it a bucket-list experience for many visitors to Puglia.
Good night, sleep tight!
Our accommodations were as much a part of the journey as the destinations themselves.
Masseria Montenapoleone truly one of the most magical places we’ve ever stayed. Every corner of the estate had its own charm. Breakfast featured delicious homemade pastries, and the infinity pool, while a touch too warm, was stunning. Evenings at the on-site trattoria felt like coming home: relaxed, friendly service, and pure Italian cuisine. The orecchiette pomodoro was easily the best we’ve ever had. The owner, with Belgian roots, loved stopping by our table to chat with guests, while her husband served the finest homemade limoncello. The only downside? A faulty air-conditioning system and the fact that, during COVID, our youngest daughter fell seriously ill there. The stay wasn’t cheap, and the rooms didn’t offer the modern comforts we’re used to, but none of that mattered. It was a place full of character, warmth, and unforgettable moments – truly TOP in every sense.
Hotel Resort Mulino a Vento was comfortable, but less our style. The rooms were spacious and practical, yes, but it lacked the intimate atmosphere we had fallen in love with at Montenapoleone. We had a themed buffet-style dinner at their restaurant – a huge white hall with stiff maitre d’s and live music. The experience was so over-the-top that it felt like we had stumbled into a Jewish wedding or a bar mitzvah, complete with all the pageantry.
Masseria Palombara Tucked away among vineyards, it offered private plunge pools, understated elegance, and a genuine sense of escape. Time seemed to slow down here, and evenings were best spent beneath a canopy of stars. It’s the kind of place where you can easily imagine being invited to a friend’s wedding, sipping a fine glass of red wine while the Italian night unfolds around you.
Mercure Bari was our final stop – practical, convenient, and perfect for a last night in the city before our flight home.
I could give up shopping, but I am not a quitter.
Shopping in Puglia is more about authenticity than luxury. Grottaglie’s ceramics are works of art, colorful pieces that feel alive with tradition. Manduria offers bottles of Primitivo that transport you back with a single sip. In Bari Vecchia, we couldn’t resist bringing home packages of orecchiette, handmade by the women who have been shaping them for generations. And, of course, the region’s legendary olive oil – rich, fruity, and utterly irresistible – made it into our suitcase as well. These are the kinds of souvenirs that tell a story and keep Puglia alive in your home.
