WHEN IN ROME …: ROMAN TALES & ROOFTOP TOASTS

February 2024

Well hello there …

Some cities capture your heart once, and then there’s Rome, which keeps it forever.
I first visited the Eternal City in 2009 with two friends, and even then, I knew I would return someday. How could I not? Behind every corner hides a postcard-perfect piazza, a baroque fountain, or a sun-drenched terrace.

So when one of my friends (who works for the Rocco Forte Group), suggested a February getaway and mentioned her amazing staff discount at one of their two luxurious Rome hotels, I didn’t hesitate.

Four friends, one beautiful city, and endless cobblestones to wander, Rome was calling again, and we answered without a second thought.

Practical Wisdom

Getting around Rome is surprisingly easy once you know the ropes. From Fiumicino Airport, the Leonardo Express train whisks you to Termini Station in just 30 minutes, faster and more reliable than a taxi.

Once in Rome, walking is the best way to soak in the atmosphere. The historic centre is compact, and every stroll feels like wandering through an open-air museum. For longer distances, hop on the metro or ATAC buses, or grab a taxi from an official taxi stand (fermata taxi), as taxis are no longer allowed to stop on the street.

A few things have changed since my last visit:
Post-COVID, it’s now mandatory to reserve a timeslot for all major museums and attractions.
So plan; spontaneity still exists, just not for the Vatican Museums.

Other practical tips:

  • Tipping is appreciated but not obligatory; rounding up or leaving €1–2 per drink/meal is sufficient.

  • Always carry cash, especially for smaller cafés and trattorias.

  • Coffee is best enjoyed standing at the bar, cheaper and truly Roman.

  • Most shops close between 13:30 and 15:00, so plan your browsing accordingly.

  • Sundays are perfect for a quieter stroll through Trastevere or the Villa Borghese gardens.

The Tourist Hotspots

Even if you’ve “done” Rome before, the magic never fades. These iconic sights are timeless:

  • The Colosseum & Roman Forum
    No trip to Rome feels complete without standing inside the Colosseum, the mighty amphitheater that once hosted gladiatorial battles and spectacles for thousands. You can almost hear the roar of the ancient crowd echoing through its stone arches. Just next door, the Roman Forum offers a breathtaking walk through the remnants of temples, basilicas, and markets that once formed the heart of imperial Rome. Go early in the morning or book a skip-the-line tour to avoid the crowds and the midday heat.

  • Trevi Fountain
    The Trevi Fountain is Rome’s most famous Baroque masterpiece, where marble gods and sea horses seem to burst from the water. Toss a coin over your left shoulder to ensure a return to the Eternal City — a centuries-old tradition. The fountain is especially enchanting at night when it’s beautifully illuminated and the crowds thin out a little. It’s a perfect spot to pause with a gelato and soak in the cinematic atmosphere.

  • Pantheon
    The Pantheon is a marvel of ancient engineering — its massive dome, with a perfect circular opening at the top (the oculus), remains one of the greatest architectural feats in history. Originally built as a temple to all Roman gods, it’s now a church and the resting place of Renaissance artist Raphael. Step inside and you’ll be struck by the play of natural light that shifts throughout the day. It’s quiet, spiritual, and awe-inspiring — a true Roman treasure.

  • Piazza Navona
    Built on the site of an ancient stadium, Piazza Navona is a lively showcase of Baroque art and architecture. Bernini’s Fountain of the Four Rivers steals the show at the center, while cafes and street artists bring the square to life. It’s one of the best places in Rome for people-watching, whether you’re sipping espresso or indulging in a long lunch. In the evening, the square glows with a romantic energy that feels timeless.

  • Spanish Steps
    The Spanish Steps offer one of the city’s most elegant climbs, connecting Piazza di Spagna below with the Trinità dei Monti church above. It’s a perfect spot to start your morning — grab an espresso from a nearby café and watch the city come alive. The surrounding streets are filled with luxury boutiques, so it’s a dream for fashion lovers. Come back at sunset for a golden view of Rome’s rooftops.

  • Vatican City
    Vatican City, the world’s smallest independent state, holds some of the greatest art and architecture ever created. St. Peter’s Basilica, with its stunning dome designed by Michelangelo, dominates the skyline and inspires pure awe. Don’t miss the chance to stand in the vast Piazza San Pietro or climb to the top of the dome for panoramic views of Rome. The Vatican Museums, including the Sistine Chapel, are also nearby and contain masterpieces that define Western art.

  • Piazza della Repubblica
    Grand and symmetrical, Piazza della Repubblica is a more modern Roman gem with Neoclassical flair. The Fountain of the Naiads in its center celebrates mythological water nymphs with a sense of movement and grace. The surrounding arcades and the nearby Basilica of Santa Maria degli Angeli, designed by Michelangelo, make it worth a lingering visit. Despite being near the bustling Termini Station, it’s often overlooked by tourists — which only adds to its charm.

  • Piazza del Popolo
    Piazza del Popolo, once the ceremonial entrance to Rome for travelers from the north, is an impressive open space flanked by twin churches and an Egyptian obelisk. It’s a great place to start or end your day, as it leads directly into Via del Corso, one of the city’s main shopping streets. From here, you can easily stroll up to the Pincio Terrace for one of the best views over Rome, especially at sunset. The nearby Borghese Gardens offer a peaceful retreat from the urban energy below.

Hidden Gems & Lesser-Known Spots

Rome isn’t just about the classics — it’s full of quiet corners and charming streets where locals linger:

  • Via dei Coronari – A romantic street lined with antique shops.

  • Piazza delle Coppelle – Great for a meal at a cozy Osteria and people-watching.

  • Ponte Sant’Angelo – Lined with angel statues, especially magical at sunset.

  • Piazza del Quirinale – One of the best city views in Rome.

  • Via Margutta – The historic artists’ street, full of character.

  • Piazza de Renzi – A quiet square perfect for sipping espresso and watching Roman life.

Would You Like a Table?

Rome spoils you with food at every corner. Here’s where we ate, drank, and discovered new favorites:

Restaurants & Trattorias:
• Girarrosto Fiorentino – Classic Roman grilled meats with old-school service.
• Il Marchese – Carbonara perfection and Rome’s first Amaro Bar.
• Trattoria Scavolini – Cosy, family-style, near the Trevi Fountain.
• Taverna Trilussa & Trattoria da Teo – Trastevere gems recommended for next time.
• Borgosteria – Tucked-away elegance with cosy vibes.
• Brocoletti – Contemporary takes on Roman classics.
• La Taverna dei Fori Imperiali – Near the Forum, loved by locals.
• Eataly Roma – Gourmet heaven for lunch or foodie souvenirs.
• Osteria degli Amici – Warm, welcoming, and reliably delicious.
• Fiaschetteria Marini – Authentic neighbourhood favorite with seasonal Roman dishes.
• Da Enzo al 29 – Beloved Trastevere trattoria known for traditional flavours and a lively atmosphere.

Rooftop & Cocktail Bars:

  • The rooftop terrace at Hotel de la Ville – Sunset with city views.

  • The Glam Hotel rooftop bar – Stylish, relaxed, and perfect for spritzes.

  • Zuma – Chic rooftop bar and restaurant.

  • Emerald’s Bar – Elegant and moody.

  • Terrazza Borromini – Piazza Navona views at golden hour.

Gelato:

  • Giolitti – Legendary near the Pantheon.

  • Gelateria dei Gracchi – Local favorite; unforgettable flavors.

Good Night, Sleep Tight!

We stayed at Hotel de la Ville 5*, right at the top of the Spanish Steps, a luxurious, elegant base with impeccable service and stunning city views.

Other top stays:
• Hotel de Russie 5* – A serene oasis near Piazza del Popolo.
• Chapter Roma 4* – Modern and stylish for design lovers.
• Eitch Borromini 4* – For those dreaming of Piazza Navona views.
• Je Rome 4* – Chic and contemporary, perfectly located for exploring the city’s highlights.
• The Hoxton 4* – Trendy and relaxed, ideal for creatives and weekend travellers.
• The Spotlight Boutique Hotel 4* – Sleek design and personalised service in the heart of Rome.
• Nomos 5* – Sophisticated luxury blending modern art and classic Roman charm.
• Casa Monti 5* – Elegant and intimate, nestled in the vibrant Monti district.
• Residenza Piranesi Boutique 4* – Stylish comfort with an artistic touch near Via Veneto.
• Elegantia Luxury Rooms Trastevere 4* – Boutique indulgence in one of Rome’s liveliest
neighbourhoods.
• Palazzzo Venere 4* – Refined and romantic, just steps from iconic Roman landmarks

I Could Give Up Shopping, But I Am Not a Quitter

Rome is as much a shopper’s paradise as it is a foodie haven.

  • Luxury & High-End: Via dei Condotti for Gucci, Valentino, Bulgari.

  • Vintage & Indie: Via del Governo Vecchio and Monti boutiques.

  • High Street & Department Stores: Via Cola di Rienzo and Rinascente Tritone, with rooftop café and views.

Local souvenirs & delicacies:

  • Artisan sandals, olive oil, Limoncello, Vatican rosaries.

  • Cornetti from Ciuri Ciuri, the ultimate Roman breakfast pastry.

“All roads lead to Rome — and once you’ve been, you’ll understand why.”